The Digital Negative For Platinum and Other Printing Processes

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Introduction.

If the people involved in the exchange began printing with digital negatives I initially completely ignored the new “trend”, then on the sensitometric tests, densitometers, color Pyro and concentrated so on. While learning all of that is extremely useful in the computer age is also working digitally gives us more consistency and better results in less time (plus other benefits) added. I now print from digital files only (except work ex of course) directly from a digital camera. Ditching cameras for quite heavy (which I was an avid user of many years) also shows the quality of my work and easier on the image I want when I want to capture improved. When I print an old picture (I have a large archive of 8×10 “camera negative), I usually contact print from original negative, unless an important picture I think I will be the pressure in the future. In this case, I prefer the scan (I use a Microtek scanner bed) and prepare a digital negative anyway.

I do not like working too traditional or digital, or both. I am interested in the production of the best and lasting images for me, a mixture of digital and traditional, what works.

That is, let’s see how to make a digital negative, can create the traditional competition. Firstly, the raw file to be good. If you are shooting digital, then digital cameras High-end (ie, a full-frame sensor of the Canon EOS 5D is the minimum), or if you are negatives traditional, good quality scanner and software. I’m using in 16 bit Vuescan. If the file is scanned from your digital camera or negative lack the resolution needed to produce a negative good, and you really want to print, like, I would recommend it with special software, such as drop onOne Genuine Fractals PrintPro (BenVista PhotoZoom Pro is also good). Note that it is of course a compromise, but I made it, good prints of relatively small files. Many of my customers do not have ultra-professional digital cameras and scanners and I often supply the medium if not low-resolution files. Speaking of useful software for working with digital files, I would like Alien Skin Exposure to mention. This marked Photoshop plug-in simulates the look of many traditional film (HP5, Tri-X, etc.), contains a complete control of the grain and also has a nice mix channel to convert to B & W, and many other features. I am the first to admit that the transition from traditional to digital film and then imitating using a filter … Film may seem absurd, but as at the end of the day is the result indicated. I do not think we should do more in software to a good job to invest, although Viveza 2 (Nik Software), is ideal for touching contrast localized (new structure and the cursor is worth buying this filter only).

The last “Software” is of course your own skills to use, beautiful to your Photoshop images. This goes far beyond the scope of this break, remember that you need a good image with at least one histogram (no spaces between the values of the sample) and a lot of shadow detail (I am making this because almost always when I digital files received from my clients say, the shadows are too thin). Here’s a little something old is your Photoshop images give more “presence” in the mid-tones and shadows. Upload an image. Duplicate the layer. Gaussian blur the new layer until it out of focus (not too much, for example, about 10/15 pixels for a 8×10 “400 dpi image) is obtained Double-click on the blurred layer to the Layer Style window select blending mode. Multiply Opacity … 60% (you’ll play with this later) go to the first two lines shaded gray at the bottom of the window Alt key (on a PC, I do not know. not on a Mac) on the white pointer to the left to it loosening of a right and drag it to the left, to your taste. Now just drag the pointer to the other whites left to keep an eye on the highlights. What we do here is, the blurred image are on the lower level in the mid-tones and shadows multiplied. Now click OK and the window layers, you can play that 60% see opacity we used to. slideshow about the difference. Use this technique with great reluctance, because we, of course, the initiation of a blur are set in the picture.

Two last things on the digital workflow, before of the curves of the platinum. First, with digital negatives that we have the opportunity to improve on the original image, with plant, dodging, burning, and so on, but we can also improve a little with some special effects. However, I recommend using special techniques of digital carefully and in moderation, ie, without drastic changes to the original image. After all, we work with a process of almost two centuries old, which certainly deserves our respect!

The second thing, platinum, and you can print more, not necessarily photos. For example, because of its extraordinary times, I’ve often asked to provide documents also important to print. Or you can print reproductions of paintings, entirely computer-generated landscapes, as with Vue or Terragen and so on made. Endless possibilities and fun.

Photoshop and curves.

You need a corner of the stage. In Photoshop, create a new 4×5 “360 dpi (the resolution is the resolution should be to print all our digital files.) Marking six columns and nine rows to create 54 seats. Many of these 00, 02, 04 … .. at 98, 100 (three places you do not leave used). Fill each box with the black of the respective densities, ie 0% (white), 2% (very light gray) to black (100%). Please check with the eyedropper in Photoshop, that the numbers really reflect the density specified, then turn and rotate the image. Well, a sheet of 8.5 x11 OHP “Pictorico print on your printer around the corner. Make a new image with higher resolution Letter same size as the glue block and the corner in the upper left corner a new level, so you are not in the middle of the dead leaf Pictorico print, this way you save room for further tests.

For years I have the printer to print my negatives was an Epson R1800 using UltraChrome inks, so your settings will vary depending on the printer you have, but if you have an Epson UltraChrome inks, they have to be very similar to mine. I recently an Epson Stylus Pro 3880 without any changes in my curve. With Epson printers and Windows Vista, this is the procedure. Select “Edit / Color settings and write down the settings in my case, Gray Gamma 2.2, please note that your test done with a Gamma, then change in the future, will it make a difference. Click on File / Print with Preview and make sure that your settings my game, especially in color management>> Print the document> Profile Gray Gamma 2.2 (if a negative control that this parameter . is the same as you have printed, for printing the corner) To print Pictorico I am using the profile PhotoRPM Epson Premium Glossy Paper (Epson upload your profile if you have not already). Note: Some people print digital negatives to enjoy with a dominant color (ie orange, brown, etc.) to the qualities of the actinic UV light, or for more density. For me it is not necessary and also to complicate things even more negative Pyro.

Click OK and the Epson panel if everything fits, for example, photo paper, glossy premium photo quality RPM, etc. If you are not using an Epson printer, try the best quality settings for photos on glossy paper your printer. Also, make sure that color management is obviously ICM. After printing the first corner, you can duplicate the layer, move it to another quadrant in the image of the letter, remove the first layer that you have already printed and set print the same sheet of film hold back change printer settings, example, I get different profiles of glossy paper in my computer and I tested all the different formats such as Photo, etc. PhotoRPM Our goal is to obtain maximum density of your printer is capable of. If you have a densitometer and a calibrated wedge can the density. In my case, print pure black Pictorico gives me the same density as you see # 14 on my calibrated 21-step Stouffer corner. Step # 14 is a density of 2.00, which is a lot. If you do not have a densitometer can give you a quick visual check: lighting, set the hold on a text written in black on the back of an envelope Pictorico, you should not be able to see all the text in square # 00-10 and very # per square meter low 12th

After printing the same corner – up to four times (of course you should take note of the parameters can be written on the sheet Pictorico with a marker), we are a small class to go – if you paper and make our first impression.

If you built your UV system like mine, the pressure should be about 4 minutes. Coat the paper with pure palladium and a decrease of 2.5% Na2 and want to expose the film for this period (as before, if your feelings with a decrease of 5% Na2 normalize you can, do it now and not to ) change. Develop clear, wash and dry, and are you willing to reevaluate your first “pressure”. The process is simple: a review of the draft in the first place, not pure white, and note the number, even for the first, not pure black. What are our limitations when preparing the images, or in the form of system range, it is your zone IX and I. These two areas of the limits as stated, but keep in mind that you are moving boxes-Stop-Shop for useful information in print (eg Zone VIII and Zone II of the brightest and darkest areas in the range of texture). Find easy with these areas, I usually cut a corner of the print and punch two holes, one in black brush strokes and the other in the light document. I compare it to the squares fitting to densities. Please do it in normal lighting conditions not seen better under a strong light.

In my case, and I hope in a similar way in your tests, I = IX ~ zone 8 / 9% and the range I = ~ 78% with a 4 minute exposure. Why am I excited about these results. Since I have several pure white and pure black squares above and below this range, so that my time is right, and does my revenge. If you do not, for example 0%, if the place does not know, but something darker than the paper from the area brushed it means (assuming that the pressure has also deleted), that your time is too long (or there is a problem when printing your ie non-negative density sufficient). Conversely, if none of your black squares are not as black as the border brushed your time is too short. Especially for pure palladium brush strokes to make a genuine black ink, etc.. The lower panel lights when they are not. If you set up the unit of exposure, as proposed, you can increase or decrease the backlight to correct the calendar, and it (will you remember when you get double the distance, the light received four times less) to about four minutes spent . A case is already over eight minutes, two stations 16 and so on, and it is not convenient when printing for businesses. However, the UV tubes to keep close to the paper would be impractical for a short time (for dodging, etc.) and probably see light bands from the pipes on the copy.

I’ll stay to the test in pure palladium at the moment. Of course, if you decide to go for a classic 50/50 solution of platinum, for example, you should test with this mixture (the same thing, when you print with different paper map).

Now back to Photoshop to create your pressure curve. Upload your favorite image gray scale, a landscape, portrait, etc. with good sound, great shadow detail and highlight how my lake, for example in the following page. To image the pipette, for example, to the shadows, wherever you want even more details right. Photoshop is probably a value of 80% or more. But while the printed corner you can see that 80% of the nearly pure black print, so this value must be changed. Also go over and detailed highlights, reading is too low, for example 30%, then you know that your zone VII is about 10%. So the next thing to do is apply a curve to the image to fit the curve of palladium in the darkroom. Create an adjustment layer curve messages. Basically, as a starting point you will get only the central part of the curve, the apparent start a horizontal line (top right, bottom left shows the shadow), and pull the right by checkpoints to keep it smooth. Keep the windows open and stresses on the curves on the same, that the notice and before the two values in the window curves, input and output. As you can see the reading of 30% is now probably a reduction of 15%, the similar change occurred with the shadows.

The curve looks like (do not move the control points at the two corners) as a kind of S. The curve is obviously a starting point. To change your curve, you only have one eye on the corner and a different picture, and easily move the points on the curve fit to the hold. Basically, if you for example, a photo of a sandy beach and falls in Zone V, you can first check that you reference (the corner boards) and see that, say, from your region V is 30%. Click the eyedropper on the sand (make sure to right click the eyedropper and click on the PT 5×5 mean reading click) and make sure that production is around 30% in the windows of the curves. If not, change points of the curve accordingly. Of course, if you choose a balanced view, you do not have to do with all the pictures you print. This is done only once and it is your own curve. You must repeat the procedure for the different mixtures of platinum and palladium, or when changing the paper or printer, or other contact information printing process – but I prefer this approach instead you different curves for pt pd printers, or for different market (I could not anyway ). This way, you have to spend some time looking at their own curve (s), but just think of the power in your hands: Ansel Adams was placing shadows on Zone III or IV and build a decent life for the restricted zone VIII or IX. You can enter up to certain limits, all ten zones almost everywhere you want to share! I usually print my new room (both negative and Pt-Pd) every six months to ensure that my methods are always right. For example, my area now a little darker than I printed the first time, years ago, probably due to the aging of the UV lamps.

Well, if you happy with your curve, click OK, then click again on the fourth icon in the Layers window and select “Invert. Finally, click Flip screen, the image and the pressure on Pictorico mirror the same way that you printed the corner. You can now use the negative as before, and if everything went fine, almost certainly, you will feel that to be very similar to that obtained on the screen. As already mentioned, from now on everything you print in palladium prints in the same period and the same contrast, assumes that you spend time on the computer in order to get a good negative. Sometimes you can get an impression of not what you wanted, because it resembles the image of the computer, for example, because the shadows are too thin. In this case, it is easy to get back on the computer and change the curve a little to give more details in the shadows. Then print the new negative. Since there is little control in the darkroom (because we feel that the contrast medium as little as possible), a new negative is almost always cheaper. Of course, please remember that you transfer a suitably bright image to the PC with an object reflects light, a print on watercolor paper, which obviously is 100% matt to try. As I said, if you observe Pt-Pd with a printing process with high contrast, such as money, please note that this contrast will be lower, the darker, more light, the tonal range will be longer. When images with high contrast and how powerful I think the platinum-palladium is not an appropriate medium.

Making digital negatives requires a little experimentation, but the results are worth the effort, especially when using traditional printing techniques. Not like now, it was possible to high-quality prints that compete with any known printing technology news man.

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